Unfortunately no one can be told what fun_plug is - you have to see it for yourself.
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Hi there.
Since fan kicks at >43ºC, and my NAS-320 is usual at 43-44ºC, it is always on (and noisy!).
Thinking, in last resource, in a fan replace (also bigger) and better (top) ventilation, will it be lower if i use a ramsink on marvell chipset?
Where is the system reading the temp ?
(HDD temp is usually at 38ºC)
Thanks
Last edited by Linhares (2011-05-10 00:21:26)
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looking for a similar solution, although ramsinks on the marvel controller have made no difference for me
HD's generally sit around 33C nut the temp recorded is always 43C or higher...and the room is not hot so Im guessing the design of the case and fan is crap. Was thinking about an 80/120mm fan on the top but it would look very messy as it would have to be outside of the case
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Thanks for helping. And already help me a lot, no go for the ramskin
So, will have to go to a fan replace too
In the top is the best solution but, in fact, it will need to be ouside the case. A fine cut with a thin fan protect could work fine.
I'm studing a replace for a bigger in the same place as the oem (in the back), but it lacks dimensions for a decent cooling
Max dimensions in the back since to be around 80x80x20 mm...
Thanks for sharing the info, once again.
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Is this fan "Mini Kaze" a good OEM replace?
http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/fa … -kaze.html
Also found out a Noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XM2
http://www.noiseblocker.de/BlackSilent40.php
But these are 12V rated fans.
In a last resort, I'm thinking about a Slim top fan like Kaze Jyu Slim 100 mm, since i can't find noctua/Noiseblocker slim fans
http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/fa … 100mm.html
Or a Noiseblocker S2 that i've got, but have to grill the top...
Last edited by Linhares (2011-05-22 23:09:15)
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I dumped a few more ramsinks on the mobo which still makes no difference, here are some photos which might provide some help with the fan. I am also considerin a top mounted slim fan with cover, just a shame that we have to mod the device and spoil its clean lines because of poor design or coding
The main board
The main board with ramsinks = no temp change
The internal frame with fan
Closeup of the fan
Last edited by d3fiant (2011-06-02 21:11:50)
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Great sharing, thanks.
I confirm that the used fan is a 40x40x10m at 5v rating, so expensive to replace, comparing to a 12v
I couldn't find any good replace (at nice cost), so i'm going also to drill the top.
The back there isn't many space for a nice fan
Now, i'm testing with a NB S2 fan, powered by usb, very quiet with nice flow
Last edited by Linhares (2011-06-02 23:23:02)
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You do realise that no matter how big or efficient a fan you add you will not get any improvement in air flow unless you enlarge the inlet space. Also there is no way, short of mounting a refrigeration unit, that you will get the temperature below ambient.
Now a couple of questions assuming you have monitored the outlet temperature with a recording thermometer unit. What do you actually want to achieve? Where is the unit situated? Mine sits out in the open with adequate space round it and is never more than 3 degrees C above ambient - measured with a recording IR thermometer.
It would appear you are giving yourselves a lot of work with no real gain in sight.
For 5v fans look to notebook spare parts.
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honestly I just want to shut the thing up Personally I think the fan threshold temp, 43C, should be higher, it takes the system temp which for me is consistently 10C over the HD temps and I have no idea where that tempt is taken from. Plus as you mention the design is crap, the airflow is poor but due to the frame it is hard to cut areas without impacting drive stability. Mounting a larger fan internally is not possible, well at least not with my skills. Also I am well aware that I will not get it below ambient with air cooling
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I don't see a lot of work for a top fan, lol.
I think too that the top solution is exactly for better flow, since the inlet is a lot bigger that the shown in the 40mm fan.
As other solutions (ix2-200), the fan always starts around 50ºC, that would resolve this "problem".
Didn't anyone tried to support for a better threshold (or manual one) ? My local support doesn't give a great answer...
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d3fiant, if you only want a quieter fan then get one from a notebook, remove the internal one and then put the fan on the outside with rubber mounts. It is also possible to control it with a thermometer module so you can set the on off temperature.
Linhares, you obviously miss the fluid dynamics part of the science course. A high speed air current has less cooling than a slow one where convection transfer is involved. Ideal situation is where the inlet is 25% larger than the outlet and the air has time to pickup the radiated heat from every hot surface. For what you are trying to do - and I wonder what your objective is - you might just as well leave the casing off, you will get the same results.
Just think of PC cooling - throwing an extra fan at the problem was not the answer so we now have water cooling and refrigeration units that directly cool components, said components that run HOT.
You also have to consider where the unit is - stick it on top of a radiator and you will never get it running cool. Likewise not leaving enough space round it will restrict the input airflow and make the fan work harder - more noise.
edit: I should have added that most overheating problems are cause by inadequate EXTERNAL airflow.
Last edited by ivan1 (2011-06-03 13:41:07)
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Sorry, my area is construction ... but i think you are missing a crucial point.
we were talking about best airflow with lowest noise.... sure a flow (air pressure) is better in a "small hole" but what about the noise?
And the idea is not a extra fan, but replace the existing, as you could read during the topic.
The idea of a external fan or a blower (like the ix2-200) seems to be good. For example, the ix2-200 hands better than this.
About the temperature, since it is a room you aren't thinking about a +30ºC (room) temperature right?
I think again that are mixing concepts in here and missing the real point....
Last edited by Linhares (2011-06-06 01:15:51)
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Maybe I've missed something. If you have a noisy fan then just change it for a better quality one of the type used in notebooks.
My DNS-320 sits in the office out of the way (actually just behind the drafting table) and in the early hours of the morning with everything quiet, the drives spinning up make more noise than the fan.
Edit: Just to add that the room temperature is 28.5C at the moment and can go well over 35C when it gets hot - then the floor stand fans noise drown out everything.
Last edited by ivan1 (2011-06-06 16:08:00)
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Hi
For some time I was looking for symilar solution for my NAS. The sound of working fan is quite irritating especially during the night time.
From my observation /and nas logs/ i know that fan kicks in around every 10-15 minutes an then switch off after similar period of 10-15 minutes.(i have only one HD drive). So what if we slow the fan's RPM by let say 50%, and at the same time we will lower the noise. Fan will be working for longer periods (or maybe all the time) but quietly.
Ok now how to slow things down. I think the best and cheapest solution is to use potentiometer, wire it to the fan's cable and manually adjust RPM. Then run some stress test with closed enclosure and use logs/temp reads as reference.
I'am aware that can be done by using fun_plug application -fanctl, (link below) but I never felt strong enough to mess around with the code.
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Edited: fanctl is not yet compatible with dns320
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http://nas-tweaks.net/85/installation-a … -fun_plug/
What do you think about this idea?
Last edited by wasyl00 (2011-06-07 13:10:11)
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Your basic idea is sound but you would need something a little more sophisticated than a simple potentiometer because if you set the voltage too low the fan would not start.
If you could get one of the fan speed controllers used on PCs that would operate at 5v then you would be ready to go.
Maybe I'm just lucky but none of my DNS-323 (2) or the DNS-320 have fans that make enough noise to hear unless you are within 30 cm of them and then it is mainly air noise.
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Been struggling with fan noise aswell. Ordered a 100x100x12mm 12V 0.16A fan, gonna try power it through an external USB (5V,0.5A) cord.
As I store my NAS in a cupboard, I can live with a removed top cover, simply fastening the fan with glue and velcro/loops would do the trick.
I'll report back on the endeavour by the end of this week.
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carlesbjorn, I doubt very much that the fan will run if you supply only 5v - most 12v fans require at least 9v to start, once started they will run at a lower voltage without a load.
I just tried with a 12v 0.14A fan - just starts at 8.2v - dies at 5v.
If you want it to run off 5v then you will need a 5v to 12v dc/dc converter. Unfortunately I don't have the Radio Spares catalogue handy to give you a part number.
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ivan1 wrote:
carlesbjorn, I doubt very much that the fan will run if you supply only 5v - most 12v fans require at least 9v to start, once started they will run at a lower voltage without a load.
I just tried with a 12v 0.14A fan - just starts at 8.2v - dies at 5v.
If you want it to run off 5v then you will need a 5v to 12v dc/dc converter. Unfortunately I don't have the Radio Spares catalogue handy to give you a part number.
Hello. can you tell pls if this converter will do the job? Thanks!
Last edited by ataraxic (2011-06-09 20:30:27)
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If someone knows 'tiny' CPU water block, that can fit inside the box between HDDs?
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Quick update, got the fan today by mail. Cut a usb cord and patched it with the molex cable. Using an external usb-power adapter it didn't start. Then I plugged the USB into the NAS itself and it ran like a charm, altough of course at a much lower speed.
Atm, the fan draws some 0.8 Watts and placed ontop of the HDDs and it reduced the device temperature from 44 degrees to 39 degrees celsius with the HDDs in hibernation. So I suppose that solved my issues.
Gonna give it some finish, possibly ditching the USB and connecting it to the internal molex instead - however I could managed to open it completely?
d3fiant, how did you remove the plastic cover? :S
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Has anybody found a replacement fan that will replace and is more quiet.
I looked at the Evercool product line (http://www.evercool.com.tw/products/fan_4010.htm) and nothing there seemed to be a match and/or an improvement.
Apparently, the factory ADDA fan is about 25dBA, and any fan I can find with the correct amps, volume, size and vots is pretty much equivalant.
So, I guessing turning off the ports to lower usage and controlling fan speed is the only real answer.
Has anybody found a quieter fan that falls within specs?
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ataraxic, If you read the specs that converter takes 12v input and gives 5v output - what is needed is a step up unit that takes 5v input and gives 12v output.
carlesbjorn, It looks as if you are lucky with the fan but before you make any drastic changes check that it works with the the disks running and still gives the desired cooling. It would also help to test that it starts with the container closed.
PeterB123, Try looking for something like a Sunon GM0506PFV2-AG this is a 5v 1.4W unit used for cooling a notebook CPU.
Last edited by ivan1 (2011-06-10 01:09:19)
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The fan is a 2000 RPM http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/0 … etail.html
Been playing a 720p for 45 minutes, disk temperatures at 33*C and device temp 41*C, the original fan still hasn't kicked in.
Gonna get some proper electrical tape tomorrow and hopefully get some pictures of my rig for you all to see.
Downside atm is of course that the fan is always spinning, but it is _extremly_ quiet. Much less noise than the HDDs actually.
0.8W*24*365=7Kwh/year ≈ less than a dollar. I think I can manage that.
Edit: Managed to remove the plastic sides, removed the standard fan and connected my top fan instead, now fastened with velcro onto the HDDs. Powers up and works great, gonna have it run over the night to see if it can keep a low system temperature in the cupboard.
Last edited by carlesbjorn (2011-06-10 02:31:11)
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Hi all,
I did some changes to cool down DNS-320 silent way.
http://imageshack.us/g/842/dns320fan010.jpg/
Installation was done by brute force ;-):
- disassemble DNS-320,
- unmount 40mm fan
- using screwdriver I crack/remove steal plate where fan was mounted - it was melted to bigger steal plate (have to take care not to destroy big plate)
- drill big hole to plastic cover from back of DNS-320
- uncut corner triangles from one side of fan - I could now screw fan from inside of DNS-320
Fan is flushed into back of NAS and temperatures are much lower - noise is now made from HDDs.
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very interesting! i love my DNS-320, but hate the noise the fan makes. is it just luck the 12v fans spin?
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deltaboy wrote:
very interesting! i love my DNS-320, but hate the noise the fan makes. is it just luck the 12v fans spin?
Probably all fans will spin on 5V but much slower. In my case it is desired effect. Just try before installing if fan spins even on LOW speed setting.
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